So you have a gecko, and now you need to know how to feed it bugs. It is one of the most common questions new owners ask, and the answer is not as simple as tossing in a few crickets. Geckos are insectivores, meaning their entire diet should be made up of live insects. But not all bugs are created equal, and how you prepare them matters just as much as what you offer. In this guide, we will walk through the best feeder insects, how to gut-load them for maximum nutrition, the right supplements to use, and how often to feed based on your gecko’s age and species. Let’s get your gecko eating like a champ.
What Bugs Can Geckos Eat?
Geckos thrive on a variety of live insects. The most popular and widely available options are crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, and black soldier fly larvae. Crickets are a staple because they are active and trigger a gecko’s hunting instinct. Dubia roaches are excellent because they are high in protein and low in fat, plus they do not climb or fly. Mealworms are a good occasional treat, but they have a hard exoskeleton that can be hard to digest for smaller geckos. Black soldier fly larvae are packed with calcium and are a great addition to the rotation. Avoid wild-caught bugs, as they may carry pesticides or parasites. Stick to feeder insects from a reputable pet store or online breeder.
How to Gut-Load Feeder Insects
Gut-loading means feeding the insects a nutritious diet before offering them to your gecko. This is the single most important step because a bug is only as nutritious as what it has eaten. For 24 to 48 hours before feeding, give your crickets or roaches a gut-loading diet of fresh vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and leafy greens, plus a commercial gut-load formula. Avoid feeding them only potato flakes or water crystals, as those do not provide enough vitamins. A well-gut-loaded bug will pass those nutrients directly to your gecko, making each meal count. If you skip this step, your gecko is essentially eating empty calories.
Gut-loading is not just for crickets. Dubia roaches, mealworms, and even superworms benefit from a 24-hour gut-load before feeding. You can keep a small container of feeder insects in a cool spot and rotate their food daily for consistent nutrition.
Supplementing: Calcium and Vitamins
Even with gut-loading, feeder insects are naturally low in calcium and high in phosphorus, which can lead to metabolic bone disease over time. To fix this, you need to dust the bugs with a calcium powder (without vitamin D3 for most geckos, unless your vet advises otherwise) at every feeding. Use a multivitamin powder once or twice a week. The easiest way is to put a few bugs in a plastic bag or container, add a pinch of powder, and gently shake until they are coated. Feed them immediately so the powder does not fall off. If you have a leopard gecko, you might also be curious about what is the best leopard gecko food for overall health, which often includes high-quality commercial diets alongside live bugs.
How Often Should You Feed a Gecko?
Feeding frequency depends on your gecko’s age and species. Baby and juvenile geckos (under 1 year) need to eat every day, offering as many appropriately sized bugs as they will eat in 10 to 15 minutes. Adult geckos can be fed every other day or every two days. A good rule of thumb is to offer 4 to 6 bugs per adult gecko per feeding. For leopard geckos, avoid overfeeding mealworms because they are fatty and can lead to obesity. Crested geckos are a bit different, as they also need a powdered fruit-based diet, but live bugs should still be offered a few times a week. Always remove uneaten bugs after 20 minutes to prevent them from stressing or biting your gecko.
“A gecko that hunts is a happy gecko. Watching them stalk a cricket is one of the best parts of being an owner.”
Feeding Setup and Safety
Never just toss bugs into the enclosure and walk away. Crickets can hide and bite your gecko while it sleeps, and mealworms can burrow into substrate. Use a shallow feeding dish with smooth sides (like a ceramic bowl) so bugs cannot escape. You can also feed your gecko in a separate small container to keep the main enclosure clean. If you use loose substrate, be extra careful because ingested sand can cause impaction. That is why many owners prefer expert pick: best terrarium sand for your reptile that is safe and digestible if accidentally swallowed. Also, ensure your gecko has proper heat to digest food. A best small reptile heat lamp under 100 can help create a warm basking spot, which is essential for digestion.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the biggest mistakes is feeding bugs that are too large. A good rule is that the insect should be no longer than the space between your gecko’s eyes. Too large and your gecko may choke or regurgitate. Another mistake is only feeding one type of bug. Variety is key to a balanced diet. Rotate between crickets, roaches, and larvae. Also, do not leave dead bugs in the enclosure, as they can rot and cause bacterial growth. Finally, never feed your gecko wild-caught insects from your backyard, even if they look safe. They can carry parasites or pesticides that can make your gecko very sick. If you have any health concerns, always ask your vet for personalized advice.
Choosing the Right Enclosure for Feeding
A proper enclosure makes feeding easier and safer. Geckos need a secure tank with good ventilation and easy access for cleaning. If you are looking to upgrade, consider a give your leopard gecko room to thrive: best 2026 tanks that offer front-opening doors, which reduce stress during feeding time and make it simple to remove uneaten bugs. A calm gecko is more likely to eat well, so a low-stress environment with plenty of hides and proper heating is just as important as the bugs themselves.
