As a vet who works with sporting breeds, I see a lot of Wirehaired Pointing Griffons come through with one common problem: owners treating that wonderful harsh coat like a regular dog coat. The Griffon was bred to push through thorny cover, swim in cold water, and work in the field all day, and the coat is a big part of how it does that. Grooming this breed is less about making it pretty and more about preserving a functional, weather-resistant jacket.
The good news is that a Griffon does not need a fussy daily routine. What it needs is the right technique applied consistently. In this guide I will walk you through the coat, the brushing, the bathing, the nails, and the ear and beard care, with the goal of keeping your dog comfortable, healthy, and protected. Get the method right and you will spend less time grooming, not more.
What You Will Need
Before you start, gather your tools. The Griffon coat responds to specific equipment, and using the wrong tool (like a clipper) can permanently change the texture. Here is the kit I recommend keeping on hand.
- A stripping knife or coat-carding tool for removing dead harsh hair
- A slicker brush and a metal greyhound comb for daily detangling
- Finger cots or grooming chalk to improve grip when hand-stripping
- A dog-specific shampoo (and optionally a light conditioner) for bath day
- Dog nail clippers or a nail grinder, plus styptic powder for accidents
- A vet-approved ear cleaner and cotton pads for the floppy ears
- Blunt-tipped scissors for tidying feet and sanitary areas only
- A damp cloth for the beard and a towel for drying
Step by Step: How to Groom a Wirehaired Pointing Griffon a dog
This is the core routine. Work in calm sessions and reward your dog often, especially early on. You do not need to do every step on the same day; brushing is frequent, stripping is occasional, and bathing is rare.
Brush and comb the whole coat
Two or three times a week, work through the coat with a slicker brush, then follow with a metal comb to catch tangles. Pay attention to friction areas: behind the ears, the armpits, and the legs where mats form first.
Strip or card the dead coat
Every few weeks, use a stripping knife or carding tool to pull the dead, loose guard hairs in the direction of growth. This is painless when done on ready coat and keeps the new harsh hair coming in correctly.
Tidy the feet and sanitary areas
Use blunt scissors to neaten the hair between the paw pads and around the sanitary region. Avoid scissoring the body coat, which softens the texture and is not how this breed should be maintained.
Bathe only when needed
Wet the coat, lather with dog shampoo, and rinse completely. Bathing every 6 to 8 weeks is plenty for most Griffons. Rinse until the water runs clear, since leftover shampoo is a common cause of itching.
Trim nails and finish the face
Trim a small amount off each nail every 3 to 4 weeks, clean the ears, and wipe the beard. Towel dry thoroughly, especially the ears and beard, before letting your dog rest.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
A few habits cause most of the coat and skin problems I see in this breed. Avoiding them will save you trouble later.
The two most damaging mistakes are clipping or shaving the body coat and bathing too often. Clipping removes the protective guard hairs and frequently causes the coat to grow back soft and woolly, losing its weatherproof function. Frequent bathing strips natural oils and softens texture. Skipping brushing also matters: when dead hair is not removed, it traps moisture and debris against the skin, which can lead to matting and irritation.
Tips for Success
Once you understand the coat, grooming becomes routine. These tips make every session smoother and protect the texture over the long term.
Always strip and card in the direction of hair growth, never against it. Keep sessions short and positive so your dog stays relaxed, especially with puppies and rescues new to grooming. Dry the beard and ears completely after every bath or swim, because trapped moisture is the leading cause of skin and ear irritation in this breed. If you stay consistent with brushing, the harsh coat largely takes care of itself between strips.
When to Get Professional Help
There is no shame in handing this coat to a professional, and sometimes it is the right call. Hand-stripping is a skill, and a groomer who knows wirehaired sporting breeds can teach you a lot.
I recommend seeing a professional groomer if you are new to hand-stripping and want to learn the timing and technique, or if your dog will not tolerate the process calmly. Beyond cosmetics, contact your veterinarian rather than a groomer if you notice red, flaky, or smelly skin, persistent scratching, hair loss in patches, head shaking, or a foul ear odor. These can signal allergies, infection, or ear disease that grooming alone will not fix. A quick vet visit early is far cheaper and kinder than treating an advanced skin or ear problem later.
Safety note: Never use human clippers, blades, or scissors near the eyes, ears, or sanitary areas without proper training, and stop immediately and consult your vet if you see broken skin, bleeding, or signs of pain.