You walk into the barn, and there it is: that familiar, hollow clunk of teeth against wood. Your horse has his top teeth hooked over the stall door, neck arched, sucking in air. It’s a sound that can drive any owner a little crazy, but more importantly, cribbing can lead to worn teeth, weight loss, and even colic. You’re not alone in this, and the good news is, cribbing isn’t a life sentence. With the right approach, you can significantly reduce or even stop the behavior. Let’s get into what actually works, not just the old wives’ tales.
First, Understand Why Your Horse Cribs
Cribbing is a stereotypy, which is a repetitive behavior that often stems from stress, boredom, or gastric discomfort. Horses are natural grazers, designed to eat small amounts for up to 18 hours a day. When we confine them to stalls and feed them concentrated meals, that natural urge is frustrated. The act of cribbing releases endorphins, which actually feel good to your horse, making it a self-rewarding habit. So, you’re not just fighting a behavior, you’re fighting a chemical reward system. That’s why simply putting on a cribbing collar often doesn’t work long-term; the horse just learns to cope with the collar.
Ramp Up Turnout and Social Time
The single most effective change you can make is increasing turnout, especially with other horses. Cribbing is often a coping mechanism for isolation and confinement. If your horse spends most of his day in a stall, he’s a prime candidate for cribbing. Aim for as much turnout as possible, ideally 12 hours or more. If full turnout isn’t feasible, try to at least provide a small paddock or even a “run” attached to the stall. And if your horse is alone, consider a companion, even a goat or a miniature donkey can help. Social interaction is a powerful stress reliever. A horse that’s busy being a horse is less likely to be a cribber.
Manage the Stall Environment
If you can’t increase turnout right away, you can make the stall itself less crib-friendly. Cover all exposed wood edges with a cribbing guard, which is a metal or heavy plastic strip that makes it impossible to grip. You can also use a bitter-tasting spray, but these need to be reapplied often and many horses get used to them. A better long-term strategy is to provide a distraction. Hang a salt lick, a treat ball, or a hay net with small holes to keep him occupied. Some owners have had success with a “cribbing bar” that’s designed to release a small amount of flavored paste when the horse bites it, turning the habit into a less harmful treat. Just remember, any device is only a tool, not a cure.
Adjust Feeding and Forage
Diet plays a huge role in cribbing. Horses with gastric ulcers are more likely to crib because the behavior increases saliva production, which buffers stomach acid. So, it’s crucial to keep your horse’s stomach busy and buffered. Feed multiple small meals throughout the day, and always provide free-choice hay or a slow feeder. A slow feeder hay net can extend eating time from 2 hours to 6 or 8 hours, which is a game-changer. Also, consider adding a high-fiber, low-starch feed, and talk to your vet about whether a gastric supplement might help. If your horse is on a high-grain diet, reducing the grain and increasing forage can make a big difference. For more on feeding, check out our guide on what eventing horses eat, which has some great principles that apply to all horses.
Did you know that cribbing is more common in thoroughbreds and warmbloods? It’s thought to be partly genetic, but management is still the biggest factor. Some studies show that up to 10% of horses in stalls crib, while less than 1% of pasture-kept horses do.
Use Toys and Enrichment Wisely
Toys aren’t just for dogs. Horses are curious creatures, and a bored horse will find something to do, even if it’s destructive. Provide a sturdy toy that can be hung in the stall, like a treat-dispensing ball or a plastic chain with a ball. Rotate toys every few days to keep them novel. You can also hang a mirror, though some horses get aggressive with it. The key is to give your horse a “job” in the stall. For example, you can hide small treats in a hay net or a cardboard box (supervise to avoid ingestion). This mental stimulation can reduce the urge to crib. Just be sure to choose toys that are safe and can’t be chewed apart and swallowed.
Consider a Cribbing Collar, But Use It Correctly
A cribbing collar can be a useful short-term tool, but it’s not a fix. It works by applying pressure to the throat when the horse arches his neck, making it uncomfortable to crib. However, if you leave it on 24/7, your horse may adapt and crib anyway, or it can cause rubs and stress. Use it only when you’re not around to supervise, and take it off during turnout and when you’re grooming or riding. Also, never use a tie-down or other restrictive device that can cause injury. The collar should be fitted properly, not too tight, and checked regularly. Remember, the goal is to break the habit, not to punish the horse. A collar is a temporary aid, not a permanent solution.
“You can’t just stop a horse from cribbing, you have to replace it with something better. A busy horse is a happy horse.”
Address Underlying Health Issues
If you’ve tried management changes and the cribbing persists, it’s time to look at health. Gastric ulcers are a common culprit. Symptoms can be subtle, like mild colic, poor appetite, or a dull coat. Your vet can perform a gastroscopy to diagnose ulcers, and if found, a treatment plan can help. Also, check for dental issues, as pain in the mouth can sometimes trigger cribbing. Regular dental checkups are essential. And if your horse is an eventer or in intense training, stress from training can also contribute. Read our guide on eventing horse training schedules to see how rest days and variety can reduce stress. Always consult your vet before starting any medical treatment, and never assume it’s just a bad habit without ruling out pain.
Be Consistent and Patient
Cribbing is a deeply ingrained habit, and it won’t disappear overnight. You need to be consistent with your management changes for at least a few weeks to see a difference. It’s also important to be patient with yourself and your horse. You might have setbacks, especially during times of stress, like a move or a change in routine. Keep a journal of when your horse cribs most, and try to identify triggers. For example, does he crib more after being fed grain, or when he’s waiting to go out? This information can help you tailor your approach. And don’t get discouraged if you can’t eliminate it entirely; reducing the frequency and intensity is a win. Your horse’s well-being is what matters most.
Remember, every horse is different, so what works for one may not work for another. Be open to trying a combination of strategies. And if you’re also dealing with other management questions, like how often to groom your horse, which can be a good bonding time and stress reliever, check out our guide on how often to groom an eventing horse. The principles apply to all horses. Ultimately, the goal is to create a calmer, more content horse, and that’s something every owner can strive for.
